BY TRAIN: The recommended solutions are two: with the TAV (high speed train, therefore renting a car) you can choose between the stations of Salerno (Campania – Km 160), or Sibari (Calabria – Km 115). For this last solution, the Trenitalia TAV is operational only during the summer period.

BY CAR: The reference motorway exit if you come from the E45 Salerno-Reggio Calabria motorway (which is now a beautiful three-lane motorway, with little traffic and very smooth) is the Lauria Nord exit.
Then, continuing on the SS 653 of the Sinni Valley, you reach Castelsaraceno in 31 km. Alternatively, continue along the SS653 and after a few kilometres turn off onto the Strada Provinciale 18, reaching Castelsaraceno after 25 kilometres. Matera is 114 km away, Potenza 107 km, Maratea and the Tyrrhenian Sea are 66 km away.

BY AIRPLANE: The nearest airports are those of: Bari (175 Km), Lamezia Terme (205 Km) and Napoli Capodichino (215 Km).

Castelsaraceno rises at 916 m above sea level in the south-western part of the province of Potenza. Its altitude varies from a minimum of 702 m (Acqua di San Giovanni) to a maximum of 1900 m (peak of the Alpi Mountain). It borders to the north-east with San Chirico Raparo (10 km), to the east with Carbone (19 km), to the south with Latronico (26 km), to the south-west with Lauria (33 km), to the north-west with Moliterno (25 km) and with Sarconi (19 km), to the north with Spinoso (24 km). It is 105 km from Potenza and 114 km from the other Lucanian province of Matera.

The horizon of Castelsaraceno widens only to the north-east towards a wide and irregular valley; it is limited to the east by a horizontal line of greenhouses, from which Tuppetto and Monte Asprella emerge; to the south by Monte Alpi; a little further on by Monte Armizzone, followed by Armizzoncello; to the west by Pietra Marina and Castelveglio; to the north by the Raparo massif, which partly protects the village from the boreal winds.

The first settlement, built in 1031 by the Saracens near the ancient Planula as a lookout, was destroyed thirteen years later by an earthquake. After being abandoned by the Normans, it came under the rule of the Mango di San Chirico family, who donated it in 1086 to the Abbots of the Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo. In the XV century it passed to the Carafa family, suffering oppression and abuse. Later it was a dominion of the Sanseverino family. It followed the fate of many feuds, ending up with the Picinni Leopardi barons, the local lords.

The ancient town centre clings to a rocky spur called ‘La Tempa’, an appendage of the Castelveglio hillock (1152 m). Its position probably reveals the existence of a Saracen settlement; in fact, it lies between the convexity of the Racanello stream, dominated to the north by the steep Monticello crag, and its right-hand confluent, the Uaddone stream. 

The dwellings, close to each other, rest on the sloping rock and form a whole with it. Signs of the medieval urban structure are only evident in the steep, winding streets, in the blind alleys, in the so-called “supports”, in the ancient ruin called Il Campanaro and in the toponymy Vocca a porta, which suggests the existence of a gateway to the fortress.

The ancient arboreal rite of the “Ndenna” takes place on the occasion of the patronal feast of Saint Anthony during the first three Sundays of June. During these three days the components of a tree of Cuccagna called by the Castellans “Ndenna” (Antenna) are collected and assembled in a sort of marriage of nature. The rite is rooted in the ancient history of this town, founded at the beginning of the second millennium of the Christian era, and in all probability has its origins in some previous peasant festival linked to the relationship between man and the land.

The rite: On the first Sunday of June, in a forest high in the mountains on the Armizzone pass, a pine tree, later called “cunocchia”, is chosen, cut and transported with the help of trucks and vans, and will represent the top of the “ndenna” at the height of the feast of the Patron Saint. The transport of the “cunocchia” through the streets of the town, thanks to the arms of the saint’s many worshippers, is a moment of great participation by the entire population..

On the second Sunday, a tree of at least 20 metres in height is located and transported from the Favino woods to become the “ndenna”. On this occasion, which alone is one of the most significant moments of St Anthony’s Day, the tree is transported to the square named after the patron saint. The transfer of this large tree and of some smaller ones that will later be used to hoist it into the centre of the square has taken place since ancient times thanks to the farmers of the area through the use of ‘paricchi’ of mighty oxen. In recent times, modern mechanical means of transport have also been used, although the entrance to the square has always been the prerogative of the ‘animal’ tractor.

On the last of the three Sundays dedicated to the saint, the “cunocchia” and the “ndenna” are assembled and, using only human strength, are hoisted and fixed in a hole dug in the square every year.

The highlight of the festival, in addition to the religious rites in honour of St. Anthony, is the collection of the “tontines”. The highlight of the festival, in addition to the religious rites in honour of St Anthony, is the collection of the “tacchetti”, which are strips of wood tied to the branches of the “cunocchia”, on which the saint’s faithful declare their offerings, almost always represented by products from the fields or farms of the area, but sometimes also by everyday consumer goods or electronic products such as televisions or other items.

The collection of “taccetti” until a few years ago was carried out in two ways. The first consisted of the use of firearms (rifles) held by hunters in the area and elsewhere, who had two attempts to shoot down some branches and thus take possession of the cleats. This method has been abandoned due to specific safety laws, despite the excitement it aroused.

The second, and currently the only method, consists of young people from the village and beyond climbing the tree with their arms. Obviously, the risks involved in this practice have always made it perhaps the most exciting moment of the ritual and of the whole festival. Until a few years ago, teams were formed to literally push their favourite to be the first to climb the tree at the agreed signal. The ‘overtaking’ between the climbers when the one in front was out of breath was always the most exciting moment because it often took place at a height of a few dozen metres.
Many articles and research have been carried out on the feast of St. Anthony and the “Ndenna” by scholars of the ancient folk traditions of this part of Italy..

Read more and discover the feast of the ‘Ndenna